Trek to Purandar Fort

Location: near Saswad, Pune, Maharashtra, India
Attractions: Fort, Trekking
Best time to visit: Monsson (July-Sep)

It was 15^th August 2013, India’s Independence day, when me and my friend Ashish decided to explore the fort Purandar. We started really late at 11am from Baner, but considering the distance of fort from Pune it was not that late too.

Route:

I started from Wakad and picked up my friend from baner.

From Baner, get on the Pune-Banglore highway and drive towards Katraj. Cross Warje bridge. Get on the left road skipping the bridge before Sinhagadh road(the bridge will take you towards Kapurhol). Keep driving on this road to reach Saswad. Saswad is ~22-23Kms once you get on this road. At Saswad junction take right to get on the Narayanpura road. Keep Driving on Narayanpura road for ~8-9Kms and you will see the HP petrol pump, at this point take left to reach the base of the Purandar to start trek.

Other route:

From Baner, get on the Pune-Banglore highway and drive towards Katraj. Keep driving on Pune-Banglore highway until you reach the Kapurhol junction, at this point take left to get on the Narayanpura road. Corss the ghats, Naraynpura village and take right at the HP petrol pump to reach the base of Purandar.

Purandar is almost at the same distance (~65-70 Kms) via any of the above route. Going via Kapurhol will give you relatively traffic free road compared to other route, but you need to pay toll (~12-13Kms before Kapurhol) to enjoy the ride on highway.

You can drive all the way up to the fort. It will be some 15-20 minutes drive through the ghats.

Purandar trek:

Purandar under clouds

We reached the base at around 1pm. We decided to trek, so parked our bike and started by 1.15pm. From the base We could see the fort Vajragadh on the left side and, the fort Purandar on the right was under heavy clouds. 

Vajragadh

We kept walking and capturing the beauty all around, on the way and as we reached halfway it started raining. It made the path slippery and really difficult to walk. We saw couple of guys coming down with mud all over them and I could imagine how difficult it is going to be for us. We really had tough time to clear couple of steep slippery patches on the way. I literally prayed that this path should end soon. After struggling for some half an hour we reached to the point where path looked better to walk on (Very narrow path through the bushes). After having last 15minutes walk on the relatively descent path, I was delighted to see a small waterfall just before the fort entrance. I could clean myself under it and felt fresh after that quick shower. It took almost 1 hour to reach the fort entrance, but in dry season it should not take more than 30 minutes to reach there.

First entrance named 'Binni Darwaja'

We could see the Indian flag waving at the top of the first entrance - BNNI DARWAJA. After crossing it, the board guided us to keep walking straight to reach the fort. We saw old church which was visible from the base, and a small shiv-temple on the way. There was one more shiv temple called PURANDESHWAR, which really looked old. A small snake like animal (not snake) was grabbing attention of the people outside that temple. We too clicked few pics of that attraction and stopped by a small food stall near that temple to have some snacks and tea.

Old church on the way

 

As we walked further we had picturesque views on our left in the valley. Vajragadh was also very prominent. 

The view of valley (The route seen is the one via which you can drive all the way up to the fort)

Sar Darwaja

After some easy walk, there started a trek again with raw path. The path was comparatively less slippery. We got up and crossed two more entrances “SAR DARWAJA” and “KEDAR DARWAJA”. We were on the fort now, but still not at the top point. We kept walking towards the hill which looked the tallest point. The path gave amazing views in the valleys on both the sides. The various shades of green, clouds and sunlight illuminating some patches on the hills, all these elements along with the cool fresh air were rewards for the hard time we had while trekking up on the slippery paths. 

The view of valley

The view of valley, bright patches are illuminated by sunlight

The view of valley through the clouds

Way to Kedareshwar temple

Kedareshwar Trishul

But then to change the environment, clouds started approaching the hill and were slowly setting up around it. Path to the top point which was clearly visible before, now was on and off in the fog. We kept walking towards that point and climbed up the steps to reach the top of the fort “KEDARESHWAR temple”. This was again a lord shiva’s temple. A big shining trishul (lord shiva’s weapon) was an attraction for people for taking pictures with it.

People really wanted to let everyone know that they have reached there at the top, they were screaming “Jay Bhavni Jay Shivaji” (praising the goddess Bhavani and the great Maratha king Shivaji) at their full pitch.

After spending some 10-15 minutes there at the top, we started walking down by 4.15pm so that we reach the main entrance of the fort by 5pm. Fort visiting time is 9am to 5pm. 

In ~15-20 minutes we reached back to the food stall at Purandeshwar temple. We had a tea break and quickly left from there. It was really getting dark due to clouds all around us. We decided to walk down by different path and so we kept walking on the straight road instead of getting down via Binni Darwaja (through which we came) . 

Mighty warrior: Murarbaji Deshpande

On the way we saw the famous statute of Murarbaji Deshpande. This big black statue of mighty warrior looked amazing in the foggy background. The fog was so intense that, on the way we could not even realize that there is a big pond just 2 meters away on our left side, it was Padmvati lake. I could not actually see the entire lake except a small patch which was visible  through the fog.

This fort is a camp for military training so many areas were restricted. Many paths were not allowed to enter. We managed to see almost everything that was visible and allowed to explore in some 2.5hrs. We got out of the fort crossed the visitors parking area and kept walking down the road. We were lucky enough to get the free ride in car to reach the base. Thanks to those friendly guys !!

The entire path was scenic with greenery all around. And the moment we reached half way I could see the bright sun and blue sky. Was it a sudden change in the weather ? No, because once we got down and looked back up at the purandar, it was still completely covered under dark black clouds.

We picked up our bike and were ready to leave Purandar by 5.15pm.

We decided to drive via Narayanpura-Kapurhol, on the way we stopped by at famous Datta temple of Narayanpura. As it was a Thursday and national holiday the place was really crowded. It is worth visiting Narayaneshwar temple just besides it. We took blessings and left the place. At the kapurhol junction, we had a tea-snacks break and then reached Baner,Pune by 9pm.

Some numbers:

Trek time (up): ~1hr

Trek time (down): ~10minutes via car

Total distance traveled (to and fro Wakad,Pune): ~141Kms 

Total duration: ~12hrs

Tips:

• If it rained and you see initial path slippery avoid taking trek path or you will have tough time later.

For more pictures of trip visit: On Facebook or Panoramio

                                                                                                                                              

Visit to Bhuleshwar Temple, near Pune

Location: near Saswad, Pune, Maharashtra, India
Attractions: Shiv temple
Best time to visit: Anytime (evening time preferred by me)

10th August 2013, Day-tour to temples continue...

After visiting Sangameshwar temple,We headed towards the last spot of the day Bhuleshwar temple.

Route:
From Sangameshwar temple reach the Saswad junction (hardly 1km) via Narayanpura road. Take left at junction and in next 50-100 meters take right turn, you will see Purandar high school on your left side in next 50 meters. Keep driving on this road for ~9-10Kms, you will reach the junction at which you need to drive straight skipping left and right turns. Keep driving on this road, you will cross railways and in next 6-7Kms Bhuleshwar temple will be visible on your left side.

Total distance from Saswad to Bhuleshwar is ~30Kms.

You can drive all the way up to the temple. Be careful at the end, while climbing up last two steep turns.

Other route:
Get on the Pune-Solapur highway via Hadapsar. Drive for ~35-40Kms, take right to get on the road going to Yevat. Keep driving on this road, cross the ghats and temple will be visible on you right side after ~9-10Kms from Yevat.

 
Bhuleshwar temple:

Bhuleshwar temple

There was something there in this temple which started attracting me the moment I had glimpse of it while we were 3-4Kms away from it and driving towards it. This well shaped temple with three domes was the only distinct thing (with annoying Tower besides it) on that tall hill. We drove all the way up to the temple, parked bike and rushed towards the entrance. 

The first thing that grabbed my attention was the big bell just in front of the main entrance. Shining bell with blue sky in background looked amazing. Then I entered in to the temple, It was really dark inside. I could not see anything except one more small entrance. I got in there and took couple of steps on my left to climb up. And when I got up I saw the thing never seen before. The ancient dark beauty, the magnificent Bhuleshwar temple. This entire temple is carved in the black rocks, and is believed to be standing there since 13^th century.

There was a huge black Nandi (famous bull of lord Shiva) in front of the main entrance. Its broken mouth seemed to be fixed using metal sheet wrapped around it. We moved inside to get blessings of lord shiva. Shiv-linga was different there, instead of regular oval stone, it was a metallic idol of lord shiva's head with metallic snake wrapped around it. There were couple of brass lamps which illuminated this entire metallic setup to look divine in that sacred darkness. 

This temple has lot of sculptures carved on the walls. Unfortunately almost all of these sculptures are broken (rather destroyed). But trust me whatever I saw was still looking great and will appeal you to think how beautiful they must have been when they were carved. These sculptures looked like of some dancers or musicians of that era. There was a broken idol of goddess Kali with scorpion in the belly and snakes wrapped around her (second pic from left below). I did not find sufficient light to capture the crisp photographs but still managed to get some good shots.

Broken sculptures on the walls of Bhuleshwar temple

As I walked towards the back of the temple I could see light coming through the openings, up at the top, and that was the only source of natural light in the temple.

The view of walls getting illuminated by this light was amazing. I was totally lost in those sculptures. I felt as if every single sculpture had a something to tell and they may come alive at any point of time. Just imagine how magnificent that era must be, and how great those artists must be who did the wonderful job of bringing life to these rocks. 

View of walls from the back of the temple

Me and my friend captured almost every visible sculptures around us there on the walls.

When I looked up on the walls at the back area of temple I found carvings of gods done there. I could easily identify Ganesha. Surprisingly female form of lord Ganesha.  

I really did not want to get out of that place, we spent more than one hour inside the temple but still I was not satisfied and wanted to spend some more time in that mysterious environment created by those half bodies on the walls around us. But later on when it got really dark and sculptures started hiding themselves in the darkness we decide to move out.

This temple has architectural significance as well, I heard one priest was telling to couple of guys that, this temple is designed in such a way that the first ray of sun hits it. I wish they put some informative boards around this temple which could make visitors aware about the history and significance of this temple. As this temple is very ancient, we might have lost much of the information about it in last hundreds of years and with passing time we are going to lose those few people who know somethings about this mysterious temple. Many thanks to all the bloggers who visit it and share the mysterious stories about this temple. 

This temple is the only highest point in that region so you get the clear view of surroundings from there. I found everything nice except a tall annoying BSNL tower at the back of the temple, which was really destroying the view of this temple right from the beginning.

The view from Bhuleshwar temple

Trishul of lord shiva

Sun was about to sign off. We left the place by 7pm and shut our lenses with last few snaps of the trishul (lord shiva’s weapon) under dark sky at small broken fort while getting down the hill. 

I would really love to see this place again for better pics and to feel the mysterious magic of sacred darkness. 

This place is highly recommended if you are in Pune and want to spend cool evening away from the noisy city.

We took road toward Yevat and got on the Solapur-Pune highway. Pune is some 40Kms drive on the highway via Hadapsar. We were in Pune by 9pm.

Our Temple-tour of the day completed.

Places: Balaji temple -> Sangameshwar temple -> Bhuleshwar temple

Total distance travelled (to and fro Wakad,Pune): ~184Kms

Total duration: ~12hrs

Tips:

• Best time to visit would be in the evening so that you get to see the sunset. 

• If you like photography then this place is must for you and try to be there on sunny day to get good pics inside the temple.

For more photos visit: On Facebook or Panoramio

 

                                                                                                                     

Visit to Sangameshwar temple (Saswad), near Pune

Location: near Saswad, Pune, Maharashtra, India
Attractions: Shiv Temple
Best time to visit: Anytime (monsoon preferred by me)

10^th August 2013, Day-tour to temples continue...

After visiting Balaji temple, we headed towards Sangameshwar temple.

Route:

From Baner, get on the Pune-Banglore highway and drive towards Banglore. After driving for ~54Kms (from Wakad) you will reach the Kapurhol Junction. At this junction, take left to get on the Narayanpura road. Cross Balaji temple and after ~18Kms Sangameshwar temple will be visible on your left side. Take left turn (before a big play ground), cross the bridge and take immediate left to reach temple.

Other route:
From Baner, get on the Pune-Banglore highway and drive towards Katraj. Cross Warje bridge. Skip the bridge before Sinhagadh road, you need to get on the left road skipping the bridge (the bridge will take you towards Kapurhol). Keep driving on this road for ~22-23Kms to reach Saswad. At Saswad junction take right to get on the Naraynpura road. And in ~1Km take right turn (after a big play ground), cross the bridge and take immediate left to reach temple.

Sangameshwar temple:

It took ~30-40 minutes (~18Kms) for us to reach Sangameshwar temple from Balaji. This temple is at the confluence of two rivers river 'Karha' and river 'Chambli'. Confluence means 'Sangam' and hence the name of this temple - Sangameshwar. The view of temple with greenery all around and small dam over the river looked amazing from the bridge that we crossed to reach this temple.

Temple seen from the bridge

Nandi seen from inside the temple

Ancient walls illuminated by flash

We parked our bike just near the temple and headed towards the entrance. Big Nandi (the famous bull of lord Shiva) welcomed us at the entrance. Inside the temple, it was all dark. The only source of light was through the small entrance and two side windows. We took the blessings of Shiv-Linga inside the temple and when I turned back, I saw a beautiful black frame of Nandi visible through the entry point of temple. I could not see anything on the walls of the temple so I thought of taking a flash photograph to see how these walls actually look like (Yes, you are free to take pics inside the temple). When I flashed I saw only blank ancient walls and pillars of rocks. There was nothing much inside so we got out of the temple to explore things around.

Temple seen from the back

Exterior of this temple has lots of carvings on it. After looking at the surroundings, I felt its not taken good care of. I found names of people written on the walls, may be these people feel proud of writing their names and destroying the beauty of such ancient places.

There were couple of small shiv temples around, they too were not in great shape but one of them had a beautifully colored (may be recently) dome. 

Colored dome

River view from back of the temple

View of the bridge and dam

Weather was good that day, luckily no rains. Blue sky with white clouds and soft sound of flowing river created a pleasant environment around the temple.  We had a good view of the river from the back of the temple. Also the view of dam and bridge over the river looked good on that bright day.

Dragon fly, they were many in numbers

There was no disturbance in photography as there were very few people around us. It was so calm that I could capture some flies too. We explored every visible spot there around the temple and after spending ~2hrs, we decided to leave for the next spot Bhuleshwar temple.

For more photos visit: On Facebook or Panoramio


Next Stop: Bhuleshwar Temple