Visit to Shaniwar Wada, Pune

Location: Pune, Maharashtra, India

Attractions: Fort, Light and Sound show after 7pm (shows not available in monsoon) 
Visiting time: 9am to 6pm
Best time to visit: Anytime
Entry fees: Rs.5/- , For Light and Sound show Rs.25/-

Shaniwar Wada:
The place which had got the foundation soil from the palace where the great Maratha king Shivaji lived for years, The place which glorified the maratha warriors, The place which witnessed the majestic era of the Peshwas, The place which became the victim of mysterious fire and kept burning brutally for seven days until everything inside it got ruined. The place where today also on full moon night, local people claim to hear the screams of a Peshwa boy, who ran all over for the help but could not save himself from getting murdered. Associated with such stories and many such unsaid stories is the place known as Shaniwar Wada.

Shaniwar Wada

Shaniwar wada is located in busy area of Pune near Kasba peth. ~5-6KMs away from Pune railway station. I had to drive for  ~15-16KMs from Wakad, Pune to reach there. I was glad to see the free parking for cars and bikes just outside this big mansion or it would have been really difficult to find the parking place on those busy roads with crazy traffic.

Dilli Darwaja

Spikes on Dilli Darwaja

The moment when I had the first view of Shaniwar wada with giant entrance, my mind started imaging about the time when this place was at its best. The entrance has sharp spikes for the protection and to stop elephants from attacking it with their head. This entrance is called ‘Dilli Darwaja’. I got inside the wada through small door on Dilli Darwaja. Just inside there is a counter, where you need to pay entry fees of Rs.5/- to enter the premises.

Cannon near the entrance

There was a cannon kept near the entry point, this golden cannon looked well maintained. When I observed carefully, I could see the blurred paintings on the entrance walls. I could make out the face of lord Ganesha and Lord Vishnu resting on the snack having multiple heads.

Pillar at front balcony of Nagarkhana

The Nagarkhana

Once I crossed the main entrance, I reached the open area of this wada. Where once there were the residences to accommodate more than thousands of people, is now just a park with some ruins. I started walking along the edge and found a small entrance with stairs. I climbed up and reached the point which was the top of Dilli Darwaja and that area is known as Nagarkhana. From here you can have a clear view of the entire park inside shaniwar wada. Nagarkhana has lots of wooden work. The entire ceiling is made up of woods. Also there are beautiful wooden pillars and windows forming the balcony at front area. Through the balcony you can see the big stage just in front of the wada entrance. Many cultural events are organized in this area.

The view of garden inside Shaniwar wada from Nagarkhana

I checked out bastions on both the sides of Nagarkhana. From bastions there starts a narrow path which goes along the top edge of massive walls of this wada. I kept walking on this path and realized that it goes along the entire wada as its perimeter. While walking on it you can see the busy streets on one side and the ruined interiors of the wada on your other side. This path had many openings with stairs to reach the ground area inside the wada. There was nothing extra ordinary on this path except bastions at corners and at midway on the sides. While walking on this path there was just one thought wandering in my mind “was it the path on which that young Peshwa boy might have run screaming for help to save his life?"

Path along the edge of the walls of Shaniwar Wada

Stairs going to the ground from the path that I walked on

I finished one round of walking on the narrow path along the walls and again reached Nagarkhana, I got down and started walking towards the park area. At the entrance there are two cannons and a back part of big cannon established right in the middle as if it was to symbolize the strength of this wada. Just nearby these cannons, I found informative boards which talked about the history of this wada.

Peshwas who played the roles of minister for Maratha kings, were later the rulers of Maratha empire. It was the peshwa Bajirao-I who laid the foundation of this mansion on Saturday, January 10,1730. Construction completed at the cost of Rs.16,120 by January 22,1732. This mansion was built for Peshwas as their residence and as the day of foundation was Saturday, this construction got its name as ‘Shaniwar wada’. In local marathi language Shaniwar means saturday and wada means residence. There were many alterations made in this wada over the period of time by the successors of Bajirao-I making this mansion even more beautiful and secure than the time it was constructed.

I started walking around the park area and came across many ruins and also some partially renovated structures. One of such place was the Ganapati Rang Mahal, this hall was designed to celebrate Lord Ganesh’s festivals by the Peshwas. This was known for its splendid interiors. Currently it seems to be renovated but definitely not like the way it used to be.

Ganapati Rang Mahal area

As I moved around I found the big fountains in the central area of the park. One was ‘Hazari Karanje’ (thousand sprayed fountains). It is of the lotus shape with sixteen petals. This is believed to be the master piece of that time. Besides it I saw Pushkarini fountain. Present state of these fountains is not that great, it’s up to you how well you can imagine about that splendid scene where these fountains were in excellent state. Apart from these fountains there are ruins of Peshwa’s office area, reservoir, quadrangles of servants and ‘Arse Mahal of Nanasaheb Peshwa’. This palace had a seven storied building and from the terrace the spire of Alandi temple was visible, but the destructive fire has gutted everything.

Mysterious door on the wall of wada

Apart from the main entrance (Dilli Darwaja) there are four more entrances in this wada. Once you enter through Dilli Darwaja, starting from left you will see ‘Mastani Darwaja’ named after the second wife of Bajirao-I. Old name for this door was ‘Natakshala’. One more name associated with this door is ‘Ali Bahadur Darwaja’. Near Rang Mahal area you will see door named ‘Khidaki Darwaja’. This door was always closed except a small window. Other names associated with this door are ‘Dindi Darwaja’ and ‘Kavathi Darwaja’. Next is the ‘Ganesh Darwaja’ which was used to access the lord ganesh's temple. And last is the ‘Narayan Darwaja’. I passed by all these doors and I was upset to see their states. They are all closed and lacking proper care. I spent lot of time walking around the park and looking at the massive walls of red bricks. There were many small doors which were kept closed but I felt as if these doors have many mysteries locked inside them and have lots of tales to tell about the past.

After spending good amount of time in park area, I decided to move out of the wada. But just before leaving, I thought of having one more look at it from Nagarkhana. The cruel time has taken away all the charm of this place, but still today this place gives good time to families and romantic couples. I could see many young couples sitting in the park area, big families enjoying the walk and stories of this wada, many college students busy posing for their solos. I was just watching all these people and suddenly heard the warning whistles. It was 6pm, the closing time for wada. I got out of this wada and decided to spend some more time sitting at the front stage area.  

Statue of Bajirao-I

The front stage area was full of people. I could see the groups of older people who looked regular visitor to this place to enjoy the evening. Some young people practicing flute. The students enjoying with their groups. Small kids playing and staring at the eagles flying very low around the wada. And in all these there stands a statue of mighty warrior Bajirao-I, riding the horse and with spear in his hand, He is all set to attack and protect his people from the enemies. 

I attended the Light and Sound show at 7pm. It was in Marathi language but they do have this show in English as well (but may be not daily). It was a one hour show about the history of Shivaji and Shaniwar wada. This show could have been even better, but considering the entry fees of Rs.25/- I would rate it as good. I came out at 8pm and spent some more time outside looking at the wada illuminated by big lights. Finally at 9pm I moved out as it was the closing time.
 

The night view of Shaniwar Wada

Tips:

• Best time to visit is between 4pm to 6pm.
• You can skip Light and Sound show unless you have absolutely nothing to do.

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